By January, a lot of homes start to show the same symptoms. Skin cracks, lips chap, static shocks snap off doorknobs, and wood floors open up small gaps. Some people wake with a scratchy throat or a nosebleed. In dry climates like Colorado’s Front Range, the air outside is already low in moisture, and heating it makes the indoor air feel even drier. The good news is that dry air is fixable, and most of the fixes are straightforward. Here is a ladder of solutions, starting with the cheapest and moving up.
Measure before you fix anything
Guessing at humidity leads to wasted money and sometimes new problems. A small humidity gauge, available at most hardware stores, tells you what you are dealing with. The EPA’s guide to indoor air quality says to keep indoor humidity between 30 and 50 percent, and it points out that a humidity gauge is the easy way to check. It also warns that humidity that is too high keeps the air moist and makes mold more likely, so the aim is balance, not as much moisture as possible.
Place the gauge in the rooms where you spend the most time and check it at different times of day. Winter readings in the teens or low 20s explain a lot of the discomfort.
Dry air is more than a comfort problem
Low humidity affects the house as much as the people in it. Hardwood floors and trim can shrink and crack, musical instruments and furniture can suffer, and static electricity can be hard on electronics. It also makes you feel colder at the same thermostat setting, which can push people to raise the heat and use more energy.
If the readings stay low even after you try simple fixes, a professional look at the heating system is worthwhile. A Denver hvac company can check airflow, ducts, and equipment, explain how the system is affecting the indoor air, and discuss options for adding moisture where it makes sense. Ask them to share the readings they take and to explain what each finding means for your home.
Rung one: free habits that help
Start with changes that cost nothing. Air dry laundry indoors on a rack, and let the moisture from a hot shower escape into the house by leaving the bathroom door open after the fan has cleared the worst of the steam. Cook with lids off when it makes sense, and let dishwater cool in the sink before draining. Keep houseplants, which release a little moisture. Avoid venting a clothes dryer indoors unless it is designed for that, because that can release lint, combustion gases, and excess moisture.
These steps rarely solve a serious problem on their own, but in a modestly dry home they can nudge the humidity in the right direction.
Rung two: portable humidifiers
A room humidifier is the next step, and it works well for a bedroom or a small area. Choose a size that matches the room, and follow the manufacturer’s instructions for water and cleaning. A dirty humidifier can spread minerals and microbes into the air, which defeats the purpose. Empty and clean it often, and use the type of water the manufacturer recommends, such as distilled or demineralized water, to reduce white dust.
Portable units need daily attention, and they only treat one space. If you find yourself hauling several of them from room to room, it is time to think bigger.
Rung three: a whole home humidifier
A humidifier connected to the heating system adds moisture to the air as it moves through the ducts, so the whole house benefits. These units are controlled by a humidistat, which lets you set a target and keeps the system from over humidifying. They need professional installation, a water supply, and a drain connection, and they require regular maintenance, such as replacing the water panel or pad.
Set the target with care. When it is extremely cold outside, high indoor humidity can cause condensation on windows and moisture inside walls, so the setting often needs to come down on the coldest days. A good installer will explain how to adjust it through the season.
Rung four: look at the rest of the system
Sometimes the humidity problem has other causes. A very leaky house loses indoor moisture quickly, and drafts bring in more dry outside air. Poorly sealed ducts can pull air from attics or crawl spaces. Fuel burning equipment that is not vented properly can also affect indoor air. If the home stays dry in spite of your efforts, ask a contractor to look at air leakage, duct condition, and ventilation. Fixing those problems can improve comfort and energy bills along with humidity.
Pulling it together
Treating dry air works best as a step by step process. Measure first, so you know whether you have a problem. Try the free habits, then add a portable humidifier where it helps. If the whole house stays dry, consider a whole home humidifier installed by a professional, and have the heating system and ductwork checked to make sure nothing else is contributing. Keep the target in the healthy range, clean any equipment that touches water, and adjust the setting as the weather changes.
Do those things and the winter symptoms ease, the house feels warmer at a lower thermostat setting, and the wood and furniture in it hold up better. It is a small project with a noticeable payoff, and it is far easier to tackle at the start of the heating season than in the middle of a dry January.
